HAMBURG: To restore the car to its former glory and get it spick and span for the road, there are a few things you need to pay attention to.
Ulrich Koester from the German motor trader’s organisation ZDK said a thorough clean-up should also include an underbody wash.
Before driving a car through the regular car wash it is a good idea to douse it down with a high-pressure hose. Most petrol stations with a car wash facility will have one. For a few coins you can wash off the worst of the crud before the brushes in the car wash start grinding particles into the paintwork.
Once the car is clean it is time to check for blemishes and paint chips, especially on the bonnet and front wings. Any damage to the windscreen should prompt a visit to a specialized workshop where minor cracks can be removed fairly cheaply thanks a variety of smart techniques.
Using a touch-up stick or tin of paint, you can remove the little flakes, dings and scratches within the space of a few minutes before rust sets in. For those who feel uncertain about tackling these eyesores, there are plenty of paint shops that will do the shop.
Stains and uneven sections of paintwork can be treated with a paint restorer. These are lightly abrasive and remove the damaged paint particles, allowing the surface underneath to be polished to its usual sheen.
Crud has a way of getting into every crevice and tricky areas to watch are the drainage channels around the windscreen and side windows. If these become clogged by debris, rust may set in. Use a piece of wooden dowel or a small brush to loosen the dirt. In severe cases water may run into the interior foot-wells, wetting the carpets and even causing mould.
Checking the underside of the wheel-arches is another chore which can pay off. Dirt and mud collects there after winter driving and if it is left to its own devices, corrosion will ensue. Use a screwdriver to run around the inside of the wheel-arch lip. The more cautious may like to use an old washing-up brush for the job.
"Thomas Schreiner of the ARCD car club advises motorists to check headlamps for scratches and cracks and the exhaust pipes for rust marks. Scratched or cracked headlamp lenses will impair visibility and could dazzle other road users.
Exhaust systems are more durable than they used to be, but the thin steel tends to rust from the inside – caused by the moisture in the exhaust gases. If you can't see any rust damage, it may soon be audible, as anyone with an unusually rorty exhaust caused by a defective tailpipe or silencer will know.
Greasing the door hinges can be messy but it pays off and a moisturiser will keep the door seals nice and supple. Naturally the boot should be freed off all that winter stuff like snow-chains, ice scrapers, folding spades and cans of de-icer. There is no need to lug these items around when the weather is warmer.
Once the car looks bright on the outside, attention can be turned to the interior.
Drivers should remove all the floor mats and see if any moisture has accumulated underneath. Dampness like this should vanish if the car is parked outside on a warm day with the driver’s window left slightly open. The time-honoured method of lining the foot-wells under the carpets with old newspapers to coax out the moisture is fine, as long as you remember to remove the soggy paper regularly.
Windows should be cleaned thoroughly from the inside since a grubby film can build up on the inside of the pane - especially if the drivers or passengers are smokers.
Glass cleaner will solve that problem, but if the interior smells of smoke or general fug, it is a good idea to change the cabin filter. Replacing this is a job for a novice, but dampness from the air-conditioning will need workshop attention. The system can be flushed and refilled at no great expense.
If you want to keep the car upholstery looking nice there are special cleaning agents, which protect the seats from UV light and fading for the next few months. Fresh windscreen wipers will ensure a clear, smear-free view ahead.
